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Three climbers conquer elusive Muchu Chhish, One of the highest unclimbed peaks

All previous attempts to reach the summit through the dangerous South Ridge of the adjoining peak Batura VI have been unsuccessful.

Three guys have accomplished a tremendous mountaineering feat by successfully reaching the top of Muchu Chhish, an unreachable 7,453-meter (24,452-foot) peak in the northern Pakistani Karakoram range. It took six days for Zdenek Hak, Radoslav Groh, and Jaroslav Bansky to arrive at the unreal top.

Mountaineers have been unable to reach the peak for a long time since it was situated in the inaccessible and distant Batura Muztagh sub-range. With an elevation of only 263 meters (863 feet) above the closest pass, Muchu Chhish is one of the highest unclimbed mountains on Earth. It is extremely difficult for climbers due to its steep, tricky terrain and foggy ridgelines.

Muchu Chhish
Image Source: Explorersweb

All previous attempts to reach the summit through the dangerous South Ridge of the adjoining peak Batura VI have been unsuccessful. A Spanish team used this route in 1999 and ascended to 6,650 meters (21,820 feet) before returning. A Czech team led by former politician Pavel Bém and climber Pavel Kořínek attempted the peak in 2020 and 2021, reaching a height of about 7,200 meters before retreating due to poor weather.

“We started on July 1 after the acclimatization,” Hak wrote over WhatsApp according to “We climbed via the south ridge to the main ridge, and then we continued westward to the summit. We stood on top on July 5 at 10:20 am and took one more day for the descent. [We] finally re-entered Base Camp on July 6 at 6 pm.”

“We climbed some 8-10 hours a day and made four bivouacs,” Hak explained. “The total length of the route from Base Camp was 20km and 3,687 vertical meters. The length from Camp 1 to the top was 14.29km, and altitude gain was 2,300m.”

In the previous four years, Czech climbers have made three attempts to reach the challenging summit. One of the participants from the previous year, the youthful Piolet d’Or winner Radoslav Groh, participated in this year’s successful summit bid. He recruited Zdenek Hak for this 2024 attempt, who last year jointly unveiled an amazing new route on Cholatse in Nepal.

The achievement of conquering Muchu Chhish is quite amazing and will motivate and fascinate the mountaineering community. It is proof of the human spirit’s capacity to push the envelope of what is conceivable and triumph over seemingly impossible obstacles in the quest for the most unattainable summits on earth.

On the other hand, Gangkhar Puensum in Bhutan, the highest unclimbed peak in the world, is 2,995 meters (9,828 ft) prominent.

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